The Majestic Sand

One of the splendors of the Sahara is the constant color changes of the sand throughout the day.

Starting out to Erg Chebbi around 3 PM. I am on the second camel

Next morning heading back to Merzuga, around 9 AM
Footprints of 4X4, camels, and people

Mostafa's grandpa, leader of our caravan

Sunset around 6 PM

Lonely at the top of the sand dune?Next morning heading back

Foreign Money

I did not even attempt to look for streets myself when I was in Morocco. It was IMPOSSIBLE if any signs were written in Arabic. We relied mostly on memory getting out of our hotel and finding the way back; sometimes with the help of a young boy or teenager who practically was always there, more than happy to guide us for a few Dirhams. Trust is the key and also the tolerance of not being bothered by endless hustling.

On the left are the Arabic numbers. After staring at them long enough, I think now I have learned them by heart.

We ordered the foreign currency a few days ago and received it today. I've only bought the Egyptian pounds since I am not sure how Jordan is going to turn out. Julee hands me two thick envelopes of 20s and 10s. I am shocked by the thickness of the bills as a result of the small denominations. It's definitely out of the question to put them in my secret hiking pant pocket. I would not be able to bend my legs to sit down on the plane. I will need to think about other hiding spots for them. I wish I did not donate my money belt to the Salvation Army.

Here is what Egyptian pounds look like. (1 US $ is approximately 5.7 EGP)

10 EGP (note the Arabic of 10 is the combo of number 1 and 0.)
20 EGP

Unfinished Business

My head's been spinning the entire day since I took my five vaccinations this morning: Hepatitis A, Hepatitis B, Typhoid, Tetanus-diphtheria. Taking them wasn't so bad. They were just separate isolated stings over my arms. As I drove in to work, I was feeling good about not having sore arms or dizzy head until the medication worked its way up. Then I started feeling really foggy brained and nauseous. By noon, I could not move either of my arms. My tiny purse felt like a heavy load dangling off my forearm. I was incoherent when talking to people. The Dr. earlier suggested I should also take a shot for polio, which I am absolutely sure of having one already in my system. Dr. said the booster shot would give me a life time protection. I asked him what polio could do. "You will be crippled". "How do I get it?" He said from food. That was news to me. But I passed. I was not sure what extra shots would do to me since I know I definitely have it in me, maybe more than one already. Then he suggested rabies shot. I told him I would be riding a camel but he or she would not really bite me and I promised I'd refrain from touching stray cats ( a born instinct in me :P). All five shots cost me over 300 bucks. Unbelievable for this expensive, self-inflicted pain!

I have to take another combo Hepatitis A/B one month from today since three shots make sure you are protected for a life time. I did not do the two booster shots after my first shot taken for China two years ago. How I regret it now! I called the Dr's to schedule it five days before I leave.

Over X'mas Weekend

Over the lazy five day weekend, I spent one day running errands and last minute X'mas shopping (yes, every year I end up doing it the 11th hour), two days with family cooking and exchanging gifts, sleeping and eating the rest of the time. Mike got me a year membership to a chocolate club. I am supposed to receive one pound of dark Belgium chocolates every month next year. The Jan. box arrived early. I got it last week and already there was only half box left. I ate them for breakfast practically every day since I got them. Yum. He also got me a tempurpedic travel pillow that weighs a pound and can be rolled up and fit into a water proof bag. This will really come in handy when sleeping on the plane and boat. I have had so much problem with my neck since I came back from Germany. The pillow I have was too soft to support anything. I also received the Rosetta Stone French which I immediately started using. Language goes away if you do not practise. In Egypt, the languages spoken are Arabic, English, and French. In case people don't speak English, a little French will be quite helpful.

I also almost finished my Eye Witness guidebook on Egypt. I wanted to start on the Jordan Rough Guide but I hesitated. I really do not want to be disappointed. I plan to call the Embassy after Jan 9. That will give a month since I dropped off my application. I realize Aquaba, the port in Jordan may give out visa on arrival since it's a special economic zone and it has its own policy but there is not enough information to say it applies to all nationalities. Nuweiba, where we will be crossing by ferry to Jordan is not as big as other resort cities in the south so it doesn't have an airport. If I decide to go to Nuweiba and can't go to Jordan, then I will have to arrange the bus transportation to go to the south city where airport is available to fly back to Cairo. Mike does not agree that I should travel alone. I may have to cut off the trip to Sinai/Red Sea and leave from Cairo by day 9 instead of day 12. Please, please... I pray everyday that my Jordan visa will come through.

City Portrait from the Sky

Firenze - from Brunelleschi's Dome of Florence. Climbing in total of 463 steps each way, with a heavy backpack of one full bottle of water, two guidebooks, and etc. Closer to the top, it becomes one way traffic, the spiral stairs shoot one way up in little light, turning round and round endlessly, giving similar effect of being in a moving vehicle and makes me nauseous. In giving right of way to downward traffic, some area has only a tip toe space to stand on. I grab onto the iron bar along the wall, that is at times greasy and dirty. The vista over Florence is breathtaking, well worth over 900 steps of heavy panting and sore legs the second day.

Paris - from Notre Dame Cathedral. About 400 steps each way but it is much easier w/o a heavy backpack. I notice how different the colors are from Tuscany. Paris has its unique curved buildings with charcoal grey rooftop. It's a foggy day so we really cannot clearly see the Eiffel Tower. The Seine runs calmly through. The greenery by the water gives the city a special charm. I absolutely adore the gargoyles! This is one of my favorite climbs.

Muchen- from the top of Munich's oldest Church, the St. Peter's Church, which overlooks Marienplatz. A total of about 300 steps each way on wooden stairs, much wider than those of the Duomo and the Notre Dame. There is even a bench for you to sit down midway should your heart and feet desire. This city is so colorful, there is no other place that resembles more like the land of a perfect fairy tale.

Praha - from the Old Town Hall at the Old Town Square (Staromestske Namesti). Beautiful 360 degree view of Prague in sunset and most surprisingly no leg work. The Town Hall has an elevator and it's the only way for the public to go up. In my opinion Prague has the most elegant buildings and interesting skyline.

Peace Corp -monologue in a drunken state

Back from Mike's company Christmas party, I feel delirious from wine. I always start to think about more philosophical things when I get into this state. All of a sudden, the normal nine to five life just does not seem to make sense at all. While Mike's driving, I keep bugging him and mumbling that I want to join the Peace Corp and work in South America. He shrugs in the dark and completely ignores me, "you'd be bored in the second day", he says, "you simply can't take the physical labor". I say to myself, "yes I can... there is also other lines of work...just think how much difference I can make in someone else' life..."

The only person I've met personally who had any ties w/ the Peace Corp is Maria. That's what she calls herself. Her real name is Mary. She's my bridesmaid A's sorority sister. Back in college, all she thought about was booze and boys. After college, for some reason, she joined the Peace Corp, went to South America, learned to speak Spanish, and worked there for three years. The first time I saw her was at a comedy club after she just got back to the States. A said Mary had changed a lot. A still refused to call her Maria but I did since that was the only Maria I knew. What a turning point of life? She chatted with our Mexican waiter fluently in Spanish, laughed out loud, and talked about her experiences with the locals. She seemed loving life, down to the earth, and a respectful hard working laboror for others' benefits.

We get home, I get online after sobering up a bit. So how does one join the Peace Corp? Their website says people can get involved in fields such as agriculture, business, community development, education, environment, health, information technology, and more. The little step by step quiz tests your passing criteria. You've got to be over 18 (Pass), US citizen (Fail), education level (Pass), Second language (Pass)... I guess not yet, not until I am US citizen. Haven't thought about converting regardless all the visa application ordeal. But now I know. There could be another way of life at the other side of the spectrum...

The Quest for Pizza in Naples

Frances Mayes mentions in her "A year in the world" that a lot of travel writers have biased or preset opinions about Naples but she herself actually has quite a fond memory of the place. She quotes that her Italian gardener, when hearing she's going to Naples, says "Napoli. Son' tutti cattivi. Tutti." (They are all bad. All.) Most travel books/tips I read/heard before we went to Italy was to watch out for thieves but especially in Naples, or if we should at all go there. Reading her passages on Naples reminds me of our short stop over in Napoli on the way from Pompeii to Rome.

We take a day trip from Rome to Sorrento and Pompeii. Because of the guidebook cautioning that Naples is pretty chaotic and full of petty thieves, we don't want to spend more than a few hours there at night. In late afternoon from Pompeii, we hop on the circumvesuvius commuter train that will take us to Naples, where we can catch our night train back to Rome. Naples is supposed to be the birth place of pizza. The only time we have reserved is to find the popular local pizzaria "Antica Pizzeria da Michele".

An impeccably dressed Italian business man sits across us on the train. The entire time, he's reading and we haven't exchanged any words. Right before I am stuffing my book and drinks into the backpack to get ready for Naples, he raises his head, points to my engagement ring and wedding band and says, "Naples? I will put that away." Surprised by this unexpected act, I respond in astonishment, "Really?!! Thanks." I turn both rings around my finger, make a fist so the stones are hidden inside, "This will do?" I seek his confirmation. He smiles and nods. Wow, what in the world! I have never experienced that anywhere before. That incident make Mike and I both wonder what kind of city we are stepping into.

Da Michele is not far from the train station, but we walk many blocks and pass so many men loitering in the street. My stomach starts protesting. We can't find the street. It's getting dark and cold. I try not to look like a tourist but it's quite obvious that we are not locals. Every time we pass someone staring at us, I grab tight into Mike's palm. Finally we decide we've gone too far and it's not right and we turn back towards the train station. At one intersection, I spot a cop. I run up to him and try to ask for direction in my broken Italian, which I pick up only a month before the trip. "Ah, Michele!" He apparently knows this place and loves it since he bursts out a quick chain of words in such excitement, but I could barely grasp one or two words. One of them is "left". Seeing that I am still puzzled, he slows down and repeats. I kind of get it now: we are on a totally wrong path, we need to turn left then go straight ahead... We get lost again. Being hard-headed, neither of us give up especially after we've already invested almost 40 minutes looking for the place. We continue walking and searching for the mysterious street. Now it gets completely dark and all the street lights are on. Fashionably looking teenagers all come out to hang out on the streets and in the road side shops. Street vendors are selling fake name brands, sunglasses, purses, watches, you name it... An hour later, we find Da Michele, we have passed the street twice but missed it because it's tucked in a tiny lane between two bigger streets. From the get-go, instead of turning to the 11 o'clock of the train station, we turn the sharp left into 9 o'clock, then continue into 12, 2, 4 till we find it back at 11 o'clock. No wonder we get lost.

It's a great relief to have finally found it... Da Michele is filled with locals since it's dinner time. We grab the last two seats at the corner table and share with two other people. I am surprised they only serve two types of pizza.: margherita (tomato sauce and mozzarella) or marinara (tomato sauce, oregano and garlic w/o cheese). The pizzaiolo (pizza makers) are making the dough on one side, the other side the pizzas are being shoved into the wood burning oven by a giant spatula. I order one marinara for myself and Mike orders the margherita. It's really cheap. Each costs 3.5 euros. Mine comes out with thin crust but the texture is chewy, red tomatoes decorate the 10 inch pizza, with a fresh green basil leave in the center. It tastes simple, pure, and wonderful.

Two years later, when we recall the hours spent in Naples, breaking our legs to try to find Da Michele, we wish we each had two pizzas because they are among the best we've ever had. My marinara is truly worth every minute of my leg work. I would do it again in a heart beat.

Carpe Diem - Burger in a Cone

Carpe Diem is a fingerfood restaurant in the historical center of Salzburg. Being a German and always planning way in advance, Ralf sent me their website link months before my trip. I then know it is a specialty restaurant that only serves food on a cone.

The day we step in, I realize this is a hot spot in town. The two story place has swanky modern design with an outdoor sitting area allowing you to people watch. The first floor has a bar on one side crowded with chic looking locals. The three of us, so utterly tourist looking, totally stand out from the surrounding...Not that I care in front of good food. Ralf made our reservation months ago so we are ushered to the second floor, where it is relatively smoke free and more quiet. We sit by the window and I can see the horse carriages passing by downstairs. The table presentation offers a serene oriental theme with slender plants streching out from little rocks at the bottom of a sleek glass vase and white flowers blossom on top. The forks and spoons are for playing doll house. Ralf picks up the tiny spoon that's no bigger than half an inch in diameter. I burst out laughing. What a contrast between my big 6 foot 4 friend and this little thing! Frankly I am not sure how he's going to handle the serveware with his gigantic hands.

Ralf and I each order the Champs-Elysées lunch menu that comes with six courses. Don't worry though since each course is served on a cone in bite size so it is not going to fill me up. Mike is not so hungry so he picks four separate cones, including french onion soup and hamburger.

Ralf says he watched a show on TV that featured this restaurant. It took the Austrian owner months to create the four or five types of cones with the right ingredient, flavor, and consistency to perfectly match the cuisine served in Carpe Diem. Each cone is the size of an ice cream cone. It was shown on TV how each dish was prepared separately in a tiny cooking utensil the same calibre as the spoons and forks. (It's certainly not cooked in a big melting pot as I can confirm from the taste later.) Ralf decided at that moment I would love this place and I do! The concept of fingerfood served in cones is itself ingenious! When in execution though, it is up to the diners. :) When the french onion soup comes out in a glass cone, Mike attempts to scoop it out in a baby spoonful, soon realizing the soup is getting cold and he's barely had two sips. He then decides to drink the entire soup in one gulp. Well, whichever way that works! My menu includes veal, chicken with wild mushroom, grilled vegetables such as corn and boh choi, and etc. I can't remember all six courses but each one is served in carefully "coned" presentation and the flavor is divine.

We are all wondering how the burger would turn out... and it comes out in three cones. One for the little meat balls, tiny bits of lettuce and a small bread patty, one for the french fries, and the last but not least, ketchup. I sample the fries with ketchup. The latter tastes different from American ketchup... I think it's less sour. Mike really likes the burger, fingerfood style.

Venezia, City on the Water

Our honeymoon's first stop is Venice (Venezia). Long time ago in grade school, I studied this refinedly written article about Venice in Chinese class. Till today I still remember the description about the chimes of the bell tower, the pigeons at San Marco square, and the mysterious waterways of the Grand Canal. It has formed the image of Venice in my mind. It's a city of romance... whimsical and feminine, just like water.

We stay right by the Grand Canal, two blocks away from San Marco square. When we arrive at the square, the first thing to do is to buy a Euro of corns to feed the hungry pigeons. For hundreds of years I bet these creatures are used to eating from human hand. As soon as I toss a couple corns in the air, I hear the wings flipping around me and above me. Instantly five or six of them spread over my shoulder and arms. The quicker ones already start to peck in my palm. It tickles so much, I start giggling... At night time, pigeons go to bed. Tourists are gone also. We again take a stroll to the square. In the dim light, Doge's Palace and San Marco Basilica rest in silence. What a difference between night and day!
Right and Above: San Marco Square

Taking a gondola ride is a must when visiting Venice. We prefer the ride on both the Grand Canal and the small canals inside the city. The Grand Canal gondolas have ports right by the water bus stop. You can hop on and share with other people too.

We decide to walk over a few bridges and pick a gondolier who operates both on the Grand Canal and small waterways. These gondolas usually park at the foot of a bridge. Sometimes the gondoliers are taking a smoking break over the bridge. We find one who proudly tells me that he had the then Chinese President in his gondola once...
Left: Over the Grand Canal towards Rialto Bridge

I have to admit when we go into the residential area, which is practically everywhere since people live right above shops and restaurants all around the canals, the smell is not so appealing. But the beautiful houses, each sits above the water and the endless water lanes turning, merging, there are no two sceneries that are the same. It is so intriguing I soon forget about the smell.



inside the city waterways

I got my Egyptian visa!

Over lunch time, Julee and I went to the Egyptian embassy. It took her two minutes to put her documents in and 10 seconds for me to pick up my passport. I opened it with joy. It's confirmed for single entry of one month stay and is valid for three months. Yay!!! One down, one to go.

Never Say Never

I think I said in my last post that I'd never forgo Egypt or Jordan when Julee mentioned about the third option when GAP cancelled our 1/23 trip. Well, never say never!

11/27 - Last Monday, we worked it out with Kathy from GAP that we'd go with Intrepid to start the same trip on 2/1. I talked to my boss again on switching the leave schedule, worked with GAP,endured endless waiting on confirmation on new charges on credit card, trip booking, and updated travel insurance.

11/29 - Wed. Heard back that my trip was confirmed. I emailed Kathy to say she made my day. What a sigh of relief!

11/29 onward - continue waiting for Julee's confirmation so we can book the flights.

12/3 - Sunday night, I flipped through the visa application forms Julee downloaded from the web. Just purely out of curiosity, I decided to visit Jordan's embassy website which was referenced at the bottom of the form. I went to the Consulate section. What do I see?!! --- Two hyperlinks of course, one for the visa application for US, South American, and European citizens, and the other link for "all the rest". My heart was going to my throat when I clicked on the link but I almost vomited it right onto the computer screen when I saw that instead of filling a visa application form, I need to first fill out this "Application for Approval to Request for Visa" form. What's even better is this application will take 6 to 10 weeks of processing time. Are you kidding me?!! I could not believe my eyes. My brain quickly started the counter. Even if I put the application in on Monday, I still don't have 10 weeks before 1/30 (my planned departure flight) to cover the worst case scenario. I sat in front of the computer in cold sweat, not grasping this surreal moment.

12/4 - Monday AM. Being stubborn and opportunistic, I decided to call Jordan embassy, maybe it's just a hoax to scare off people. How could processing take that long? The lady told me for any other category citizens, the application for approval to request for visa is sent to the Jordan motherland by MAIL apparently, then being processed; decision is made then sent back to the States. At that time, they would inform me to then apply for the visa. I could not believe my ears! At this day and age, why not use a fax machine?!! She said I only needed a copy of my passport and a copy of my greencard, plus the application form. I can drop it off at the embassy and wait and that was what I did. I drove to the embassy. At the window, I explained that my flight would leave on 1/30 and I'd booked the trip and paid for every penny of it. The answer was "This is our process, there is nothing I can do." On my part, I did what I could in the least amount of time wasted. I hope for the best.

Because of the Jordan experience, I decided to go over the Egyptian application form again and this time saw the fine prints which said for non-US citizens, call consulate. I called. The lady asked my nationality and said "Well, it could take 2 days or 6 to 8 weeks." She said it depended on my supporting documents.

12/4 - Monday PM. This was the critical point where I had to make a decision. I have too many variables at this point for my pending trip. I have to book the flights to supply for good supporting document in order to get the Egyptian visa but there is no guarantee that I can get it in two days or 8 weeks (which puts it on the same boat with the Jordan situation). Jordan almost sounds like a complete loser at this time. Who knows where my application will go? Floating on the Dead Sea? 1)I can book a refundable flight which costs almost double, with cancellation in case Jordan fails, to pay even more additional penalty; or with the worse case both countries fail, I lose the trip and the flight penalty. 2) I can cancel the trip but I will lose half the trip cost because it's past 60 days till the trip starts -- and I gain nothing. 3)I stick with the original plan, pay my normal non-refundable ticket, have the best intention that both visas will go through, maybe there would be no problem; or only Egypt goes through, I go to Egypt and forgo Jordan (half of the trip). Pay change fee for the air ticket and buy a new one way ticket to come back from Cairo instead of Amman. I lose half of the trip but I gain by seeing the Pyramids and the Nile. I am willing to at least gain some and I am ready to lose half of the trip.

12/5 - Tue. AM I pay a trip to the Egyptian Embassy. Guess what? It took me 2 minutes to supply all my documents: passport, copy, green card, copy, application form, verification of employment which specifically states that I am going for vacation and I am coming back to work. Duh! booking confirmation, e-ticket, GAP trip confirmation. I even brought my bank statement just in case. The woman indeed questioned that if I could travel with my maiden name, which was on my passport. I showed her my old passport with all the visas I got in the past in my other name. She asked for 20 bucks and said "December 7, pick up between 12 to 1." Ah, music to my ear. My heart was singing. What a roller coaster ride!

I put everything in God's hand from this point on. He will decide if he opens me the door to both Egypt and Jordan. I am not greedy but I am full of hope.