Packing

In my futile attempt to look slightly more fashionable than my last trip, I decided to pack a couple skirts for this trip since we ARE, after all, going to the beach! Not only are we going to be soaking in the sunshine over the turquoise Aegean Sea in Fethiye, we are also going to spend days along the Dalmatian Coast. I had this completely out of nowhere romantic picture of Croatia. I felt obliged to look girly at least once maybe in Trogir where sandals and skirt would not raise eyebrows as in a Muslim country...

Of course I am still bringing my very "attractive" hiking pants which I bought from REI last year for the very practical use during the backpacking trip. I simply can't live without the gazillion zip pockets on those pants. What's probably going to end up happening is me in hiking pants the entire way, bum-looking, and dreaming about the sun dress brushing my knees in the Adriatic breeze.

I have also decided not to backpack. Instead I will bring a carry-on size suitcase. I will still only bring minimum with me so I can bring back maximum from the Grand Bazaar.

The biggest lesson learned from the past is the supply of cough drops and cough syrup. Both in Egypt and Thailand, I suffered from bad cough, induced from cold/fever or pollution. The condition was not incredibly uncomfortable but extremely annoying since it affected sleep and carried on for days. I will go to CVS and pack a lot of cough suppressant for the upcoming trip.

The plot to get Julee to go to Çemberlitas

Traveling with Julee was a breeze. We both get excited about pretty much anything; being Chinese, we both eat practically everything. All it takes is for one of us to mention an idea, it would most certainly spark interest in the other party. This is why it puzzles me why Julee refuses to go to a hamam in Istanbul. I cited multiple guidebooks that all said "MUST NOT MISS HAMAM", "authentic Turkish experience"; I cajoled her, "Wouldn't it be just great having a nice steam bath and massage after walking at the Grand Bazaar for eight hours...!?"; I begged, "please. please. I will carry your backpack for you for one whole day?" I threatened, "I don't care even if I have to drag your arse there. You are not missing this once-in-a-life-time experience!!!" I shamed her, "How could you? Going all the way there and not have a real Turkish bath!!" She did not budge so far. What's happening with this fearless woman who sailed the seven seas and never frowned even after dislocating her elbow on the Nile felucca?!


Back to what a hamam is. According to Wikipedia: Haman is Turkish bath. It's a steam bath, which can be categorized as a wet relative of the sauna. It had an important role in cultures of the Middle-East, serving as places of social gathering, ritual cleansing. For women, it was a place for socializing and gossiping.

A person taking a Turkish bath first relaxes in a room (known as the warm room) that is heated by a continuous flow of hot, dry air allowing the bather to perspire freely. Bathers may then move to an even hotter room (known as the hot room) before splashing themselves with cold water. After performing a full body wash and receiving a massage, bathers finally retire to the cooling-room for a period of relaxation.


The hamam every guidebook recommends to go is Çemberlitas, amidst Sultanahmet, among all the greatest monuments of Istanbul. When I look at the pictures from its website, I am dying to go and feel the warm, hot and cold and whatever that comes in between and after. Julee has sent me some articles on other women's experiences going to a hamam. In general they are described as a torture session where you are "steamed" and "skinned". I imagine Indian Burns taking place in a neighborhood full of kids and amongst all kids, the hamam masseuse would be the executioner, the big bully. My curiosity is running wild. How painful can it be? I would have to see it to believe it myself. And Julee, yes, she is coming along. Like it or not. I have a month to work out a plan to bring her there.

I want...

Here is what I want most out of the trip:

• Whirling Dervishes - we researched and found a Saturday night show. No advanced Internet booking is available so we will stop by to get tickets as soon as we arrive in Istanbul. In Egypt there were also dervish performances but did not work for the days we were in Cairo.
• Raki, this is an alcohol beverage infused with anise flavor. It's unofficially the National Drink of Turkey. Usually you are suppose to dilute it with water otherwise you may have a bad hangover.
• Nargile, water pipe smoking. Julee and I tried it the first time at El fishawy in Cairo. It is called "sheesha" in Egypt, "hookah" in Jordan. I gravitate towards the apple flavor. Lonely Planet recommends a few coffee houses that serve as the Nargile Gardens in the Sultanahmet. Must not miss!
• Along with the drinking and smoking, I should also not miss the coffee fortune telling. After drinking Turkish coffee, people from the coffee house can read your fortune over the thick coffee grounds left behind.
• Mussels off the street. Our coworker Serra who's Turkish raves about the mussels in Istanbul. I love seafood and mussels are one of my favorite. I imagine myself sniffing along and eating non stop.
• Hot air balloon ride over Goreme. I have never been on a hot air balloon before. I heard that it would be a smooth sail. Watching sunrise over the stone chimney looking cave houses and churches would be superb.
• Paragliding in Oludeniz. When Julee suggested this, I had a mental picture of parasailing. "Of course". I echoed to her idea. When I saw the pictures of parachute over the Aegean Sea, I realize I would be flying instead. Oludeniz hosts international air events annually so there are lots of experienced pilots who would glide with us. This is yet to be the most adventurous thing I will ever do.

The Itinerary

Here is our itinerary roughly including travel time:


5/9-5/10 Istanbul
5/11-5/12 Cappadocia/Goreme
5/13-5/15 Fethiye
5/16-5/17 Selcuk/Ephesus
5/18-5/19 Istanbul
5/20-5/23 Split/Trogir
5/24-5/26 Dubrovnik