Monday, April 07, 2008

The plot to get Julee to go to Çemberlitas

Traveling with Julee was a breeze. We both get excited about pretty much anything; being Chinese, we both eat practically everything. All it takes is for one of us to mention an idea, it would most certainly spark interest in the other party. This is why it puzzles me why Julee refuses to go to a hamam in Istanbul. I cited multiple guidebooks that all said "MUST NOT MISS HAMAM", "authentic Turkish experience"; I cajoled her, "Wouldn't it be just great having a nice steam bath and massage after walking at the Grand Bazaar for eight hours...!?"; I begged, "please. please. I will carry your backpack for you for one whole day?" I threatened, "I don't care even if I have to drag your arse there. You are not missing this once-in-a-life-time experience!!!" I shamed her, "How could you? Going all the way there and not have a real Turkish bath!!" She did not budge so far. What's happening with this fearless woman who sailed the seven seas and never frowned even after dislocating her elbow on the Nile felucca?!


Back to what a hamam is. According to Wikipedia: Haman is Turkish bath. It's a steam bath, which can be categorized as a wet relative of the sauna. It had an important role in cultures of the Middle-East, serving as places of social gathering, ritual cleansing. For women, it was a place for socializing and gossiping.

A person taking a Turkish bath first relaxes in a room (known as the warm room) that is heated by a continuous flow of hot, dry air allowing the bather to perspire freely. Bathers may then move to an even hotter room (known as the hot room) before splashing themselves with cold water. After performing a full body wash and receiving a massage, bathers finally retire to the cooling-room for a period of relaxation.


The hamam every guidebook recommends to go is Çemberlitas, amidst Sultanahmet, among all the greatest monuments of Istanbul. When I look at the pictures from its website, I am dying to go and feel the warm, hot and cold and whatever that comes in between and after. Julee has sent me some articles on other women's experiences going to a hamam. In general they are described as a torture session where you are "steamed" and "skinned". I imagine Indian Burns taking place in a neighborhood full of kids and amongst all kids, the hamam masseuse would be the executioner, the big bully. My curiosity is running wild. How painful can it be? I would have to see it to believe it myself. And Julee, yes, she is coming along. Like it or not. I have a month to work out a plan to bring her there.

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