Thursday, October 19, 2006

My Two Cents on Beer


Beer halls and Biergartens are probably the most famous symbols of Munich. The first one we’ve visited is Augustiner Keller near the central station. Germans drink beer over lunch, dinner or anytime during the day I guess. Surprisingly I don’t feel dizzy after drinking half a liter. The foam is especially good when I submerge my lips in it, touch it a bit first then gulp the air down anticipating the ice cold beer to come anytime afterwards passing through my tongue. In the evening of the first day, we meet my college friend, Rella, and her husband Robin for dinner. Because Mike and I have so many local guides this time, we are recommended mostly to places locals eat instead of the world famous beer hall such as Hofbräuhaus where rowdy tourists congregate. The Paulaner brewery is right outside our beer hall. I try the Weissbier, white beer literally. It is very light and always served in its special hour-glass-figure beer glass. I also sample two other beers ordered by Rella and Robin. One dark that tastes sweet, one orange that tastes a bit sour to me but Robin corrects me that it’s really more bitter instead of sour. Well, to my taste buds anyways. I stick with the weissbier. Neither Mike nor Ralf drinks alcohol so all I can say is either “What a waste!” or “More for me...”

Biergartens are more popular in summer due to the weather condition in Bavaria. They offer rows of benches and tables outdoors. You can bring your own food to some of them, purchase your beer and enjoy! We have failed at two attempts to sit outside at the Biergarten because it is too cold. On the fourth day in Munich, we walk to the Chinese Pagoda in the English Garden, their biergarten is open but I have stuffed my face with roasted peanuts from street vendor so another beer at that point is too much to think about.

Rella says the food at Hofbräuhaus is not good and it’s extremely loud to sit down and chat. Being a typical tourist, I ask to just check out the loud-mouthed drunk tourists, the traditionally dressed beermaids and the band that’s frequently playing inside the beer hall. We have some time on Sunday night. As soon as the door opens, noises inundate me. This is just as I have imagined: lively music dominates the background when people yell or maybe just try to chat loud enough to hear each other, beermaids dressed in plaid rush from table to table with at least 5 liter mugs full of beer in each hand, tourists sit on the benches next to each other like fully packed sardines in a can. We quickly pass the vaulted hall, which is truly gigantic, and close the door and craziness behind us. There in front, a moonlit quiet street leads towards Marienplatz, promising a much calmer night ahead of us.

Czech people also share similar thirst for beer if not more than their German neighbors. They brew their own beers which are all very good. Among which, Pilsner Urquell is the flagship brand in Czech Republic. It is golden and smooth. I have it every meal in Prague except when I drink the incredibly strong shot of Absinthe.

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