Fira, Santorini

The Flying Cat 4 sailed into the crater engulfed by the huge caldera of Santorini around 7:30 PM. We were in this tiny ferry swinging in the gigantic waves which formed a crib. After waiting for the never coming boat, we were roasted at the Mykonos dock, hope dwindling. The past few days, the boat was not able to operate due to strong wind. Three hours and a long nap later, we were staring in amazement at the reddish, brown, and black tone of the cliff soaring hundreds of meters above us and the whitewashed houses at the edge of the cliff. About 1700 BC, the volcano erupted and the center of the island sank into the sea leaving the crater of today of 10 km in diameter.

The caldera

When we arrived at Enigma, our hotel at the top of the caldera in Fira, capital of Santorini (aka Thira), the western sky turned orange red. The hotel receptionist told me that the normal sunset time was 8:15. I looked at the watch, it was 7:55. We had time for the famous Santorini sunset.

Sunset Fira from the hotel terrace

Our hotel is built on the cliff, stepping down to about five storeys. Our suite was 3rd storey down. The terrace was facing the big and small volcanoes and the sun was still in low sky. Without unpacking, we situated ourselves on the patio and watched the sunset. Everywhere I go, I always love watching the sunset. Sunset over the sea is the best of all since there is nothing blocking the view and the sun always seems so much closer. I looked around and saw all the whitewashed houses turned golden under the sun. The surface of the caldera became even more multi-colored.

Holding the hand-drawn map from the hotel, we explored Fira in the evening. First we had dinner at Ouzeri, a local taverna. Then we trailed the cobble street of the Gold Road (named so because of all the gold shops along the street) all the way to the Cable station. The cable goes from the top of the caldera to the old port below and it only runs in summer. Lots of restaurants with volcano view are at the top of the cliff. It was a great vantage point for me to take night pictures of the Fira town below with thousands of lights, blue pools of the hotels, and bustling restaurants and lounges. Around 12 AM, people were still eating dinner. Night clubs just started to become busy. Shops were still all open with tourists picking out handmade jewery and souvenirs. I had the largest ice-cream ever since it was not scooped into the cone. Instead the shop girl gave me two huge wooden spatula-full of the cold treat.

Night View near the cable station

Next morning I got up really early and walked my way down the steps to the old port. The Gold street that was bustling the night before was quiet and still asleep. The steps went winding down to the bottom of the caldera and smelt quite bad since this was the donkey route to the old port so it was full of donkey droppings. I had to tip toe around at times in my flip flops while taking in the fresh morning view of the sea. The sun was not even out yet but numerous boats already started their morning commute.

Around 7:30 when I started to walk back, I heard bells and hasty steps on top of the cliff and out went a train of donkeys led by an old man wearing a blueish grey hat, just like coming out of the picture books I had seen of Santorini. I was so excited I started waving to the man saying hello and good morning. He waved back and said hello. The cute donkeys walked by very obediently with their heads down one after another.

Very soon, herds of donkeys came down, among which were also horses. The stairs became obviously crowded. At one point, I was backed into the corner, hanging half way outside the trail, holding my camera tight. I looked down, the stairway had formed a busy traffic jam.